Running the Kamo River: Reflections

As the sun rose, I ran north along the Kamo River. Cold, but in awe of the serene blend of soft morning sunlight, distant snowcapped mountains, ancient architecture, the calming, meditative flow of the rushing waters, and the diverse collective of runners also taking on the pavement. Each step brought me incrementally closer to the foot of those mountains. I felt like chasing them all the way to the horizon.

The canal forked. I passed a university. Small, lined rectangles elucidated visions of football being played here. Maybe later in the day. I saw a group of school students training here too. I’d guess a track and field team.

I’d premeditated my route today. Left at the canal fork. Into the imperial palace. That seems a crazy statement. Running there felt crazy as well. It was a beautiful park, dedicated not only to the obvious imperial centre, but also ample green space, playgrounds, cafés, lovely walking paths, and public amenities. I don’t think I expected the public amenities to be so great in Japan, or at least in the large cities I’ve visited. They’re clean, frequent, and useful. It also seems as though even the tiniest kissaten or izakaya have a nook somewhere out the back dedicated to a bathroom.

Speaking of, I had a strange encounter in the aforementioned imperial palace bathrooms, where a man was waiting for me to go into a stall so that he could dump a bunch of rubbish underneath one of the sinks. Odd. The sink was out of order so I got curious and saw that there was actually stacks of trash underneath it. Quite a bizarre sight for Japan I think. Was it all from this one guy? Unlikely, but maybe? It was a reminder that Japan has an incredible image for cleanliness and squeaky-clean streets, but is not perfect.

Continuing my run, I exited the palace, checked my phone quickly, and noticed that by destination was pretty much dead-straight then dead-left. Easy. I could’ve follow the main road, but instead I opted for the narrow side-streets and alleyways instead. Good call. These streets are where I’ve found myself most immerse in Japan. People riding bikes, seemingly useless paid parking areas with a two-car capacity, beautiful architecture. Each alley has a certain sameness, yet each is clearly distinguished by subtle details and unique character. Usually, locals would tend to the miniature storefronts attached to their homes, going about their morning, but today is a holiday!

As I wind my way towards home, I start noticing a peculiar number of European stores. German food, French food, Italian food. Lots of Italian. I run through Nishiki markets and have to do a double take because I didn’t register it. I came here two days prior and really found it a stressful experience due to many factors. Today though, it was peaceful; serene. The neon was dark. A few early-risers were unloading supplies. I felt some of the charm that I was supposed to feel when I came here the first time. Quiet, unimposing, retro-themed beauty. I ended my run with an onigiri from the konbini.

Running along the Kamo River reinforced to me why I love exploring cities on foot, why I’m fascinated by Japan, and why running always seems to be such a fulfilling experience. Ten kilometres flew by almost without me even realising.